Arnar Már Jónsson Autumn/Winter '21
A lot of consideration goes into the design of Arnar Már Jónsson’s garments, each brought to life thanks to a number of sedulous, labor-intensive processes. And for Autumn/Winter ‘21, the designer and his partner Luke Stevens are experimenting even further, taking advantage of a new dyeing technique that was ostensibly funded by the Icelandic government.
As much of the collection is rooted in this technique, many of the shades produced are seemingly ethereal, wrought from sources such as iron as well as black tea. While the entire palette is certainly lustrous, the most standout dye undoubtedly comes from the use of beitilyng, a flower -- which translates to “heather” in English -- that’s unique to Iceland and only blooms once a year. Then, after being colored with each of the aforementioned, the pieces land in the UK where Stevens hand waxes much of the line-up himself.
What’s more, Jónsson’s use of Ventile and technical wool makes a return, the fabrics utilized across styles thematically similar to the eponymous label’s past offerings. Parkas of a wide variety feature subtle though signature detailing, some with intricately constructed, cinched hoods and others an arrangement of protected seams. Alongside half-buttoned pullovers, color blocked shells, and placket-adorned blousons, the range also delves into knitwear and fleece. The latter subset is relatively straightforward in its breadth of vests and long-sleeve jackets, but the former is glaringly unique, informed by traditional weaves and yet still visually cohesive in its cut, color, and off-center zippers.
Though the AW21 collection is not available yet, you can view the entire lookbook below. A release should arrive at a select set of stockists this coming Fall.