INTERVIEW | In Conversation With Jeong Li, the Designer Behind J EONGL I
Hailing from Seoul, South Korea, Jeong Li is swiftly climbing up the ranks of the burgeoning technical design space among an emerging wave of new talent. Using clothing as his form of expression, Li categorises his work under his namesake, J EONGL I, a brand that is underpinned by three core elements: neatness, sophistication and practicality. Despite being relatively new to the industry, his accomplishments and footprint in a seemingly short space of time are hard to match; to this day, J EONGL I has just finished exhibiting its Autumn/Winter ‘23 collection at Paris Fashion Week, with the aid of Impossible Objects, garnering widespread attention from press and buyers alike.
Designed with the concept of ‘New City-Wear’ in mind, a transitional uniform for operating in the office and post-work activities that require physical exertion, J EONGL I’s debut collection sold out faster than most established brands can boast about. Dubbed 001, the debut range consisted of technically astute styles like soft-shell jackets, bottoms, hard-shell jackets and a vest. In line with the label’s practices of using cutting-edge technologies, the garments utilised taped seam constructions, laminated zippers and two-way zippers to name but a few.
During Autumn/Winter ‘22, J EONGL I introduced its Basic+ line, an offshoot that is dedicated to combining classic silhouettes with technical materials, the first instance of which saw the release of the ‘Essential Overshirt’. Maintaining the same design principles as the main label, the garments incorporated materials like waxed nylon and see-through fabrics, boasting water-repellent and anti-static properties. As far as branching out is concerned, Basic+ allows Jeong Li to separate the two sides of the brand, allowing J EONGL I to be more experimental and operate on a seasonal basis.
As J EONGL I approaches another stage of its development, it continues to evolve as evidenced in its Autumn/Winter ‘23 collection. Taking on a multi-faceted approach to the lineup, we see a curation of expertly-crafted outerwear and bottoms, with each category bearing garments that take on their own form. Innovative pattern cutting, forward-thinking fabrications and technical details aplenty are just a few of the defining points of J EONGL I’s aesthetic. On the whole, we see the 3L Shield Jacket, Insulated Reversible Vest, Uniform Pants, Uniform Jacket and Hiking Trousers leading the way. In contrast to previous output, we see more diverse colour combinations as a nod to nature.
After J EONGL I exhibited its Autumn/Winter ‘23 collection, we decided to catch up with the designer who is spearheading the brand, Jeong Li.
eye_C: Jeong Li, thank you for taking the time to speak to eye_C! How has the beginning of 2023 been for you? We saw you were in Paris - did the showroom go well?
Jeong Li: So far, I think this has been the busiest beginning of the year since I started the brand. As for the showroom in Paris, the reception was better than I expected and plenty of people came to visit. As a designer working in Asia, I found that presenting in Paris comes with a number of challenges but that has allowed me to learn a lot and I have forged some good relationships.
eye_C: Functionality is an inherent part of your process, what draws you to designing clothing of a technical nature as opposed to purely for aesthetic reasons?
Jeong Li: While I appreciate clothing that comes from a place of aesthetics, through my work, the implementation of functionality is the highest priority and that comes first. Once I realise just how far the boundaries of technical innovation can be pushed, this becomes a benchmark to research and explore - there is a natural beauty in this process that J EONGL I abides by.
eye_C: While you were designing the collection, what was at the forefront of your mind? Does each garment have a specific purpose?
Jeong Li: First of all, yes, there are a number of considerations, including ensuring that each garment is properly designed to protect people from rain, wind and cold. When I start designing a collection, I made the fabrics my top priority and begin to collect various swatches from different companies to determine what is fit for purpose and what isn’t. As soon as I get a feel of that, the inspiration just comes with it, it’s a natural process.
In this instance, Autumn/Winter ‘23 is inspired by the colours and lines found in nature and this is reflected in many of the design choices that are unlike the previous collection.
eye_C: How does the collection reflect the season it’s designed for?
Jeong Li: These are clothes designed for use in both cold conditions and frequent wind and rain, as well as harmony and usability with one another so that layering can be optimised - it’s highly fit for purpose.
eye_C: Do you have a personal favourite garment from the collection that you’d like to detail? Or, if not, maybe a new fabric technology you are excited to be using?
Jeong Li: I want to talk about the 3M Thinsulate Insulated Vest, it is made using waterproof and windproof fabric and the lining utilises a grid-shaped synthetic fibre that optimally preserves the wearer's body temperature. To retain heat, we opted to use 3M’s Thinsulate technology to create the vest silhouette without giving it a bulky appearance. In addition, the design also has a unique quilting line and coloured cut line with the advantage of providing a new look due to its reversibility.
eye_C: In regards to the future, what can we expect to see going forward in terms of collaborations with other designers and brands?
Jeong Li: I am currently talking with various companies about potential future projects. When working in collaboration, the most important thing is the capacity and production to realise the technical processes and designs you want. Through this, we are hoping to tackle challenges in new areas and I think we can show something in the near future.
Stay tuned for updates regarding the release of J EONGL I’s Autumn/Winter ‘23 collection.
https://www.jeongli.com/
Copy and Interview: Ali George Hinkins
Creative direction: @_jeongli
Production & Photography: @maiklojewski & @leowwwild
Styling: @wack_mestjan / @maiklojewski
Model: @karimood_
Agency: @impossibleobjects
Imagery taken from J EONGL I’s Autumn/Winter ‘23 lookbook.
