AKIRA NAKA Autumn/Winter '20
Namesake label AKIRA NAKA has effectively established a rapport with tailoring itself, even despite the designer’s early leaning towards knitwear. And while the latter is still a healthy part of his forthcoming collections, Autumn/Winter ‘20 detours towards a slew of artistic, abstract outerwear and matching formalwear that exudes the energy of artist Francis Bacon.
At its heart, the range is elegant -- no piece without this very essence. Blazers, though typically extremely masculine and overpowering, arrive here with a relaxed, effortless appearance and a myriad of unique modifications. Sleek black variants -- with their excessive buttons and accentuated lapels -- mark with somehow classy pom poms; nearby, a seemingly standard sportscoat is hit with sturdy brown wools and an emphatically on brand cut that mimics Bacon’s destruction of his own works. Then, in further subversion of the norm, a double-breasted alternative removes its collars entirely in favor of a zippers sans its teeth.
Trousers then cut to match with the use of a vast moodboard of different fabrics -- some thin and others thick -- starting with a hemp-like linen and finishing with aggressively structured leathers. Tops mirror this breadth in energy, though their technique is far less straightforward as loose gauge turtlenecks are spliced together with contrasting pullovers and so on. Vests of similar fabrication turn into extremely lengthened ponchos, blouses are fitted slim in the torso and made to billow and puff at their sleeves, and smart dresses employ rounded, eclectic cuffs alongside. Next to coat length cardigans, patched argyle, reformed polos, and even more displays of upcycling, the AW20 season shapes up to be a very inspired set of standouts.
Grab a detailed look at everything just below.
