UNDERCOVER Spring/Summer '21
Considered, immersive, and near commentative in its presentation, UNDERCOVER’s forthcoming Spring/Summer ‘21 collection opened its doors to a wide array of color and silhouettes near reminiscent of the label’s subjectively proclaimed heyday. A stark departure from the season previous, the range explores current shapes rather than ones feudal as garments in the realm of suiting, knitwear, and much more come together for a 3D-rendered set piece.
Digital in all facets, the models and the garments that dress them all pay homage to our current reality, adding further layers to the landscape that lies behind screen after screen. But despite such a playful and somewhat satirical approach, the pieces on display are certainly not without Jun Takahashi’s patented sense for details. Blazers and the trousers that accompany, for example, are rife with subtle to bold accents: these visually graduating from simple, mismatched buttons to luxe metallic adornments of chains, clips, and the like. Moreover, adjacent sets of outerwear, while also marked with lapels at points, filter with an overt workwear appearance that subverts the norm through either color blocking, fit, or implemented knit sleeves. A subtle nod to itself, the latter is but a fraction of a much larger selection as sweaters of multiple varieties see to signature distressing and pastel shades wholly calming. Cardigans arrive in two ways -- either bearing a multitude of pockets or shape changing slits -- while pullovers see to tears and side zippers or stripe-less argyle.
Collaborations, a forte of Takahashi’s, are also well-included. And thanks in part to his long standing relationship with Nike, the footwear brand has provided their most evolved React silhouette. New toolings, which assumed a large role in ISPA’s upcoming curation, are replete with aggressive molding, contrasting that of the more simple design language above. Color blocking adopts loud, colorful accents marked against the grain of neutral two-toned uppers, while rose graphics carry over elements from Gyakusou’s recent entries. Elsewhere, even Vans seems to play a part as two Authentics were revealed with differently hued floral prints.
For a look at all that and much, much more, check below.
