UNDERCOVER Autumn/Winter '20
Throughout Jun Takahashi’s lengthy and accolade-ridden career, fans have frequently come and gone, favoring that of his archival collections than many of his more recent. But amidst a filmography of inspiration, the Japanese designer has sharpened his blade -- this time quite literally -- returning to form by way of heavy Eastern influence: specifically one inspired by the feudal era the famed director Akira Kurosawa had envisioned. Autumn/Winter ‘20 reflects such works through the distorted lens of UNDERCOVER’s making -- a Paris Fashion Week show only further immersing in such world building.
And despite the many standouts, what likely stuck with people the most is the samurai garb that walked in all sorts of classic UC ethos, incorporating familiar staples, fabrications, and patterns in a way very obviously fresh. Armor paneled and traditionally informed garments all caught the wide eye, featuring subtle pattern markings that make it more modern alongside a jade and terracotta tinged palette that’s suitably congruous to the overarching theme. The warrior class finds the most representation here, with shoulder pads and chest pieces molded to the shape of contemporary outerwear -- ornate embellishments all included. But just adjacent, there lies nobility: masterworks of layering and maximalism with floral prints embedded atop pieces draped over one's shoulder and bold accents to a graphic haori base by way of culturally significant roping. Elsewhere, tailoring stretches far out of the expected -- especially SS20 -- hats accessorize with animalistic features, statement plaids uplift wool-constructed tops, and hakama as well as worker’s bottoms round off the entire ensemble.
Hoodies, down vests pinned along their chest, characteristic all-over executions, use of “Throne of Blood” imagery, and much more are still left to see, so grab a full look at the “Fallen Man” collection right below.
