kolor Autumn/Winter '20
Informed by an underlying and consistent visual absurdity, kolor’s many seasonal collections have never fallen on deaf ears, using a stacked roster of standout silhouettes that could only fall under Junichi Abe’s unique brand of design. Autumn/Winter ‘20, following shortly after his wife Chitose Abe’s runway display, honors past motifs by pushing the envelope even further into an almost fever dream like state.
At a glance, it’s difficult to even understand some of what’s at hand, with pieces offering up as many details as they can muster. Cardigans -- at least the general template of such a piece -- are definitive displays of patchwork at its finest, using sensible woolen constructions at parts to then circumvent expectations via swatches of denim truckers and loose gauge knits. In the same vein, outerwear staples such as the aforementioned, military parkas, and the Harrington jacket come together at various points in what is effectively a neopolitan arrangement of icons -- many different versions following under the very same category. These surrealist collages lie at the heart of the entire range even further out, employing the same language from loose V-Neck sweater vests to the more simple graphic sweatshirts. Moreover, collars along overcoats, rugby tops, and even blazers prefer to mismatch, with few oxfords and blousons opting to multiply certain elements instead.
Baselined by trousers pressed, pleated, or even wide-legged, the selection strikes a strong balance, viewable in full via the gallery images just below.
